Below, you will find a pattern for a sock that was published in July 1917, the summer that America joined the war.
This was also when the Red Cross amped up it’s efforts when it came to knitted goods. In May, the Women’s Bureau (later becoming part of the Dept. of Development) was created to organise activities for the women at home to do their bit.
There was an ever urgent call for knitted goods under the call ‘Knit for Sammie’ and where the title of this project came from: ‘Knit your bit!’
There was an effort to make patterns and needles as uniform as possible with specifications. This caused there to be standard size Red Cross needles so that new knitters wouldn’t be stumped when they decided to help out. The Women’s Bureau oversaw the distribution of patterns to civilians.
In mid-1918, the call for socks became urgent and the US was expected to produce 55,000 socks every three months. This came in response to the ever present danger of trench foot.
If you would like to read exactly what the American Red Cross was up to, I can point you in the direction of this book. It is a fascinating record of finances, memberships and accomplishments spanning July 1917 to February 1919.
This work didn’t stop when the guns fell silent. When world war 2 broke out, they started the initiative to knit up again. And perhaps your humble author will share those pattern in due time.
But without further ado-
Men’s Socks
Abbreviations and terms:
- K1; Knit one
- P1: Purl one
- Sl: Slip stitch
- K2tog: Knit 2 stitches as one
- Psso: pass slipped stitch over
- Knitting plain: knit stitch/stockinette
Materials and notes:
- Around 100 grams or fingering weight yarn – Khaki and grey were the preferred colours. I used Schachenmeyer Regia 4ply
- Needles 1 ⅔mm or 1 ½mm or size 00 or 000 US – The instructions call for double pointed needles but this could be knitted on circulars with the help of stitch markers.
With 100 grams of wool and 1.5mm or 000 size needles I was able to make a pair of socks that fit a size 41 EU or 9.5/10 US foot. More yarn will be necessary for bigger sizes depending on your gauge. My gauge was 40 rows and 50 stitches.
Instructions:
Setting up – Cast on 80 stitches divided in 26 on one needle and 27 each on two needles.
Knit k2, p2 for 10cm or 4 inches
Once you’ve knit the ribbing, pick a stitch which will become your seam stitch. This stitch will be purled every row until you get to the heel.
Knit 2 more inches of stockinette so you have 15cm or 6 inches of sock with the ribbing included.
Now narrow around the seam stitch as follows:
- Knit to the last 3 stitches of your seam stitch; slip (sl) 1, k 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch k1, p the seam stitch, k1, knit 2 together and knit the rest plain
- Knit 7 rows plain and narrow every 8th row until you have 70 stitches left
Knit plain until the leg measures 24 cm or 9 ½ inches
Heel – Divide the stitches so you have 17 stitches on either side of your seam stitch.
These will be worked in one piece, no longer in the round.
Slip the first stitch of every row, knitting the right side and purling the wrong side until the heel flap measures 5,5cm or 2 ¼ inches
To turn the heel as followed:
1st row – Sl 1, k 25, sl 1, k1, psso, turn
2nd row – Sl 1, p 15, p2tog, turn
3rd row – Slip 1, k15, sl 1, k1, psso, turn
Repeat the second and third row until there are 17 sts left on your needle with the wrong side facing you.
Knit these 17 stitches and on the same needle pick up 16 loops along the left side of the heel flap, knitting each stitch you pick up.
On a second needle knit the 35 instep stitches and on a third needle pick up 16 loops on the other side of the heel flap and knit 8 stitches from your first needle.
Gussets – * On your first needle, knit plain until the last 2 sts. Narrow and knit along the instep needle (your second needle).
On your third needle, sl 1, k1, psso, knit until end.
Knit one round plain
Repeat from * until there are 70 stitches left in the round. Continue knitting plain for 12 cm or 4¾ inches or until the foot measures 8 inches or 20.5cm. This can be longer for bigger shoe sizes.
Toe – Begin on the first needle for the first round
*Knit 5, narrow. Repeat from *, knit for 5 rounds
7th round – * K4, narrow. Repeat from *, k 4 rounds plain
12th round – *K 3, narrow. Repeat from *, k 3 rounds plain
16th round – *K2, narrow. Repeat from *, k 2 rounds plain
19th round – *K1, narrow. Repeat from *
20th round – Narrow 10 times. Draw the wool through these 10 stitches, draw together,
Break off wool and fasten on the wrong side.
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